The Climbs

Listed in reverse chronological order (most recent at top). Some climbs have links to trip report pages with photographs. If you're looking for a particular route by name, use your browser's search tool to locate it (in Microsoft Internet Explorer click on >Edit >Find).

Commitment grades for alpine routes are for comparison only. We roughly adopted Nelson and Potterfield's scale from their guidebook "Selected Climbs in The Cascades", then used our judgment to make grades in other mountain ranges (or other countries) consistent with those in the Cascades. These grades do not include time spent approaching a high camp, when one was used.

Quality ratings are of course entirely subjective and range from no star to five stars. We occasionally use NR, for "Not Recommended". Keep in mind that we have a very strong preference for long trad routes that follow striking, obvious lines... our quality ratings probably reflect that.

For a summary of climbs we've done before this trip, check the climbing page of our 2003-2004 bus trip, and our climbing resume.

Type Location/Peak Map Route(s) Rating
Quality
Date
Remarks
Rock Indian Creek, UT West Coast '09 Various (trad) from 5.10 to 5.11
*****
10/18/09 to 10/25/09
Words don't do it justice! THE best crack climbing destination in the universe.
Rock
Devils Tower, WY
West Coast '09
Various (trad)
from 5.9 to 5.11a
*****

09/25/09 to 10/03/09

Incredibly sustained crack climbing on sweeping basalt columns. Should be on the itinerary of any crack lover.

Rock
Ten Sleep Canyon, WY
West Coast '09
Various (sport)
from 5.9 to 5.11
***

09/19/09 to 09/23/09

Steep sport climbing on limestone in a pretty setting.

Alpine Rock Haystack Mountain , Wind River Mountains, WY West Coast '09 Minor Dihedral (5.9, 7-8p)
***
09/12/09 Good route on the West face of Haystack. Striking line.
Alpine Rock Sundance Pinnacle, Wind River Mountains, WY West Coast '09 NE Arete (II, 5.10c, 5 to 8p)
***
09/03/09
Incredible line on the east face of Sundance. The crux pitch is phenomenal! Unfortunately, the good climbing only starts halfway up the formation.
Alpine Rock Warbonnet, Wind River Mountains, WY West Coast '09

Black Elk (IV, 5.11a, 8p) (not completed - bailed after p3)

*****
09/02/09
Amazing route on an incredible face. Definitely of the caliber of the better free routes on the Longs Peak Diamond, in Colorado. Steep, sustained, and physical, all at 12,000ft. Bailed off after three pitches.
Alpine Rock Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY West Coast '09 Open Book (5.9, 6p)
****
08/28/09
Good line with an amazing crux pitch. Some of the best rock climbing we have found in the Tetons.
Alpine Rock Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY West Coast '09 Irene's Arete (5.10a (direct exit), 6p)
***
08/27/09
Probably the most popular pure rock climb in the park. A great line with good climbing.
Alpine Rock Mount Moran, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY West Coast '09 CMC Route (III, 5.6)
**
08/21/09
The easiest way to summit Mt Moran. Not an unpleasant route, but unortunately plagued by hordes of guided parties. The best part of this trip may well be the canoe approach...
Alpine Rock Grand Teton, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY West Coast '09 Gold Face (III, 5.10a, 7p) to Upper Exum Ridge (II, 5.4, 1500ft)
****
08/12/09
An elegant direct line to the summit of the Grand. Gold Face is a harder variation to the Lower Exum, and boasts a terrific crux pitch.
Alpine Rock Mount Moran, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY West Coast '09 South Buttress Right (5.11a/b, 8p)
****
08/05/09
Continuously fun and varied climbing on excellent rock. Too bad the route doesn't really go anywhere...
Mixed Alpine The Enclosure, Grand Teton, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY West Coast '09 Enclosure Couloir (IV, AI3, 800ft, 50° snow & ice) to Northwest Ridge of the Enclosure (III, 5.7, 4-6p)
****
07/31/09
A very alpine combination of a moderate snow and ice couloir with a surprizingly good rock ridge.
Rock Storm Point, Cascade Canyon, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY West Coast '09 Guide's Wall (variation, 5.9+, 6p)
**
07/23/09
Very popular climb with a mellow approach and scenic views of Mt Owen. P5 & 6 are really good.
Rock Cathedral Rock, Death Canyon, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY West Coast '09 The Snaz (5.10a, 9p)
***
07/20/09
Known as a Teton "cragging" classic. Some good pitches, but overall not a stellar route.
Snow & Ice Middle Teton, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY West Coast '09 Northwest Ice Couloir (III, AI3, 5.6, 40-50° snow & ice)
****
07/16/09
Fun shorter alpine route if you catch it right (i.e. with ice!)
Rock Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO West Coast '09 Mainliner (5.9, 6p)
****
07/07/09
The classic moderate on Sundance. Varied climbing and not typical of Lumpy.
Rock The Book, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO West Coast '09 J-Crack (5.9, 3p) to Hurley Direct (5.9, 1p)
*****
07/05/09
THE Lumpy crack climb. So good we did had to do it twice (Lucie's lead this time).
Rock West Coast '09 Loose Ends (5.9, 3p) to Cheap Date (5.10a/b, 1p)
*****
07/01/09
Simply amazing... what more can I say?
Rock The Bookmark, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO West Coast '09 Backflip (5.9, 4p)
****
06/29/09
Good intricate line with varied climbing.
Rock The Book, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO West Coast '09 Femp (5.9, 3p)
***
06/25/09
Wide crack classic with a thin crux.
RockRock The Bookmark, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO West Coast '09 Melvin's Wheel (5.8+, 3p)
****
06/22/09
Super popular moderate. A good intro to Lumpy's flared cracks.
The Bookend, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO West Coast '09 Handbook (5.9, 4p)
***
Two good pitches of sustained crack & corner climbing.
Rock The Bookend, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO West Coast '09 The Climb of the Ancient Mariner (5.10a, 3p)
****
06/20/09
A rarity at Lumpy: pure slab climbing on the long 2nd pitch. Gorgeous line.
Rock The Bookmark, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO West Coast '09 Romulan Territory (5.10b, 3p)
****
06/19/09
Thin flared crack/corner climbing.
Rock The Left Book, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO West Coast '09 The Whale (5.7, 3p)
*****
06/17/09
Must be one of the best 5.7s in the country.
Manifest Destiny to The Dog (5.7, 3p)
****
Another great 5.7 next to the Whale.
Hiatus to Ten Years After (5.8, 3p)
***
Some spice on p1 leads to a great corner above.
Rock The Book, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO West Coast '09 Thindependence (5.10c, 1p) to Visual Aid (10a, 2p) to Cheap Date (5.10a/b, 1p)
*****
06/14/09
Probably the best 5.10 combo on the Book. Too classic for words.
Rock The Book, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO West Coast '09 J-Crack (5.9+, 3p) to Cheap Date (5.10a/b, 1p)
*****
06/12/09
J-Crack is the most famous Book classic and a pure gem. Cheap Date may be the best 5.10 pitch at Lumpy, and one of the best anywhere!
Rock The Bookend, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO West Coast '09 Orange Julius 5.9, 4p
****
06/09/09
Varied and interesting all the way. Features an amazing hand traverse.
Rock
New River Gorge, WV (and nearby Summersville Lake)
East Coast
Various (mostly trad)
wide range from 5.7 to 5.11b
****

05/10/09 to 06/01/09

Really good, single pitch cragging with easy access! As good as T-Wall, and there are more routes! Incredible variety of styles.

Rock
Red River Gorge, KY
East Coast
Various (trad & sport)
wide range from 5.7 to 5.10
**

05/03/09 to 05/09/09

The few good trad lines are really scattered. No lack of overhanging pocket-pulling sport routes - if this is your cup of tea... Very rainy and humid place.

Rock
T-Wall, Chattanooga, TN
East Coast
Various (trad)
wide range from 5.7 to 5.10c
****

Several days between 04/11/09 and 04/28/09

Really outstanding single pitch trad climbing. Amazing selection of cracks, corners, and roofs, mostly in the 5.8 to 5.11 range. Perhaps the best trad crag east of Lumpy Ridge? Beware of frequent hunting closures.

Rock Foster Falls, Chattanooga area, TN East Coast
Ankles Away (5.9) and Mommy (5.9)
*
04/17/09
Steep sport climbing in a pretty spot. Got pumped silly on two bolted 5.9s. This stuff just ain't for us!
Rock Sunset Rock, Chattanooga, TN East Coast
Broken Arrow (5.10a), A Sense of Adventure (5.9+, TR), Walk in the Park (5.8) and Train Time (510a)
**
04/16/09
A few good lines and easy access but quite spread out and most of the rock is not nearly as appealing as T-Wall.
Rock Seneca Rocks, WV East Coast
Tomato (5.8, 3p) and The Prune (5.7 PG, 4p).
***
04/05/09
Tomato is a classic. The Prune is the most sandbagged 5.7 we've ever found; Link p1 and p2 together for a really good 60m pitch.
Rock Seneca Rocks, WV East Coast
The Burn (5.8), Marshall Madness (5.9) and Crack of Dawn (5.10a)
***
04/04/09
Three very good, very steep routes. Had a mini-epic due to hurricane force winds on the routes...
Rock Seneca Rocks, WV East Coast
West Pole (5.7+, 2p) with the Direct Finish exit (5.8, 1p) and Triple S (5.8+, 1p)
****
03/31/09
Very pretty place and fun climbing. Extreme sandbagging on anything moderate.
Ice

Cap-au-Renard, Gaspésie, Québec

Québec Ice Montagnes Russes WI3+ and WI4+, 60m/200ft
**
03/25/09
Fun shorter pitches right by the road; thankfully shaded.
Ice

Mt-Saint-Pierre, Gaspésie, Québec

Québec Ice Corneille WI5+, 75m/250ft
****
03/24/09
A very steep pitch with wicked ice formations and great views of the Saint Laurent. Tricky conditions: cold and brittle in winter, but also gets a lot of sun.
Ice

Parc des Hautes-Gorges-de-la Rivière-Malbaie, Québec

Québec Ice La Pomme D'Or

WI5+, 330m/1100ft (not completed - bailed on p3 due to broken pick, damned BD picks!!)

*****
03/14/09 to 03/17/09
One of the most coveted and one of the tallest pure ice routes in North America.
Ice

Rivière Sainte Marguerite, Côte-Nord, Québec

Québec Ice Le Pilier Simon-Proulx WI5, 175m/600ft
*****
03/09/09
Classic. A really gorgeous route with a beautiful approach on the frozen river (make sure it is well frozen and be careful).
Ice

Canyon of the Rivière Sainte Marguerite, Parc des Monts Valins, Saguenay, Québec

Québec Ice La Dent de Dracula WI5, 50m/170ft
***
02/26/09
50m of steep, unrelenting climbing in an out-of-the-way canyon with a very pretty approach.
Ice North bank of the Saguenay Fjord, Québec Québec Ice

Parapluie

(retreaded after p1 due to icefall danger)

WI3, 100m/330ft
**
02/25/09
Rated 4+ to 5 in the book but don't believe it. Easy climbing around huge, beautiful, and dangerous ice umbrellas. Worth it for its unique setting on the fjord.
Ice Mt Kineo, Rockwood, Maine Québec Ice Maineline WI5+, 90m/300ft
*****
02/22/09
A really gorgeous, steep line with easy access (except for a long drive from just about anywhere).
Ice Pont Rouge, Québec Québec Ice Le Tube (WI5, 30m/100ft) and Valentin (WI5+, 30m/100ft)
**
02/20/09
Two steep columns in a pretty canyon. Valentin was so much fun that we didt twice in a row...
Ice Rivière Saint-Maurice, Mauricie, Québec Québec Ice Topaze (WI4, 170m/560ft)
*****
02/17/09
Very striking, golden waterfall. Feels more like a sustained WI3, with a short (10m) vertical step.
Ice Chutes Montmorency, Québec Québec Ice

Super Momo (WI4, 85m/280ft), Le Pilier Direct (WI4+, 80m/260ft), Le Pilier de Cristal (WI4+, 80m/260ftft)

****

02/13/09 and 02/15/09

All really fun routes in a unique setting. Don't forget your GoreTex for Super Momo...
Ice Parc du Mont-Sainte-Anne, Québec Québec Ice Chutes Larose (lower tier) WI3-4, 45m/150ft
**
02/10/09
Nothing too exciting but a still a pretty waterfall in a quiet area. Two smaller tiers above the first are rarely climbable.
Ice Chutes Montmorency, Québec Québec Ice La Congelée (WI3, 100m/330ft), Le Pilier Direct (WI4+, 80m/260ft), Le Pilier de Crystal (WI4+, 80m/260ft)
****
02/09/09
Our first day of climbing after being grounded for a month due to injury!
Ice Mt Pisgah, Lake Willoughby, VT Northeast Ice Renormalization (WI4, 200+ft)
**
01/06/08
Just right of the famous and much harder "Mindbender".
Ice Mt Pisgah, Lake Willoughby, VT Northeast Ice Glass Menagerie (WI5, 300ft) and Crazy Diamond (WI4+, 250ft)
****
01/04/08
Two outstanding lines, each climbed in two pitches.
Ice Mt Pisgah, Lake Willoughby, VT Northeast Ice Float Like a Butterfly (WI4+, 300ft)
***
01/02/08
A good climb, left of Twenty Below Zero. Two possible finishes.
Ice Cannon Mountain, NH Northeast Ice The Black Dike (WI4, M3, 500ft)
*****
12/26/08
An amazing line and an all time classic. Extremely popular, for good reason. Get an early start.
Ice Smugglers Notch, VT Northeast Ice Dave's Snotsickle (WI3+, 250ft)
***
12/23/08
The most striking, obvious line on the South wall as you walk up the road into the notch. Start can be thin early season.
Ice Mt Pisgah, Lake Willoughby, VT Northeast Ice Twenty Below Zero Gully (WI4, 300ft) and Crazy Diamond (WI4, 250ft)
***

12/18/08

Not much ice to be found in the NE, so we're back at Willoughby, redoing whatever looks climbable.
Ice Mt Pisgah, Lake Willoughby, VT Northeast Ice Twenty Below Zero Gully (WI4)
***

12/14/08

One of the easier classics at Willoughby...and not really a gully. Two full pitches.
Ice Smugglers Notch, VT Northeast Ice Grand Confusion (WI3+) and Blue Room (WI4)
**
12/05/08
A rambling gully route, and a nice, fat ice pillar.
Ice Franconia Notch, NH Northeast Ice Ace of Spade (WI4) and Short Trick (WI3-)
***
11/30/08
Ace of Spade is worthwhile. Also did "Short Trick" because we were there.
Ice Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch area, NH Northeast Ice Standard (WI3-)
***
11/23/08
First pitch of ice in two years! ...and the only climbable route we have found.
Rock The Near Trapps, The Gunks, NY East Coast
Birdland (5.8 PG)
**
11/17/08
Nice face climb and major sandbag (perhaps the most sandbagged 5.8 we've ever been on).
Rock The Trapps, The Gunks, NY East Coast
Rhododendron (5.6), Apoplexy (5.9+)
***
11/12/08
After warming up on Rhododendron, Eric got thoroughly pumped and a bit freaked on Apoplexy...
Rock The Trapps, The Gunks, NY East Coast
Frog's Head (5.6, 2p), Maria (5.6, 3p), BB (5.8+), Low Exposure (10d)
***
11/10/08
Frog's and Maria are two of the better moderates at the Gunks. Don't miss the 3rd pitch of Maria! BB is fun and LE makes a good desperate pump out for the end of the day.
Rock The Near Trapps, The Gunks, NY East Coast
Alphonse (5.8), Grand Central (5.9 PG)
**
11/09/08
Our first day at the Near Trapps. Spent a lot of time wondering which climb we were looking at (thanks to the very shitty guidebook). Got two nice climbs in.
Rock The Trapps, The Gunks, NY East Coast
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (aka CCK, 5.8+, 3p), Directissima to High Exposure (5.9, 3p)
***
11/05/08
Classic 3rd pitch on CCK. Directissima is OK but very pumpy (p1). High E has wild positions but uninteresting climbing (jug pulling).
Rock The Trapps, The Gunks, NY East Coast
Rhododendron (5.6, 1p), Horseman (5.5, 1p), Jackie (5.5, 2p), Bunny (direct) (5.6, 2p)
***
11/04/08
Four well protected climbs. Lucie's intro to Gunks leading. A great day at the cliff... and a great day for the country!
Rock The Trapps, The Gunks, NY East Coast
Finger Locks and Cedar Box (5.8, 1p), Ant's Line (5.9, 1p), Bonnie's Roof (direct exit) (5.10a, 2p)
****
11/02/08
FL&CB was just a warm up...the two 5.9 dihedral routes maybe the best at the Gunks. Ant's Line is amazing and technical, while Bonnie's is more burly. Do the direct exit, you won't regret it!
Rock The Trapps, The Gunks, NY East Coast
Shockley's Ceiling (5.8+, 1p), Snooky's Return (5.8, 2p), Beginner's Delight (5.3, p1 only)
***
10/31/08
Shockley's is a well known classic (originally rated 5.6). Snooky's is a really good technical route.
Rock The Trapps, The Gunks, NY East Coast
City Lights (5.8, 2p)
**
10/30/08
Really cold day... fun technical route.
Rock The Trapps, The Gunks, NY East Coast
Ken's Crack (5.7, 1p), Baby (5.8, 2p), Something Interesting (5.7+, 2p), Laurel (5.9, 1p)
***
10/27/08
Our first day at the Gunks. Trying to pick well protected crack climbs and get used to the steep rock and stiff ratings. "Something Interesting" is really fun!
Rock Rumney Crags, Plymouth, NH Northeast Rock

Sport

Single pitch, 5.8 to 5.10
*

10/23/08 - 10/24/08

Most popular sport climbing spot in the Northeast. Crowded, pumpy, bolted routes. Fee required to park. In short: we hated it.
Rock Cannon Mountain, Franconia Notch, White Mountains, NH Northeast Rock

Vertigo

5.9 A0 R, 5p (bailed after 3 pitches)
***
10/19/08
Nice climbing on p1 and 2. Bailed off pitch 3 due to risky unprotected moves going around an arete.
Rock Whitehorse Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH Northeast Rock
5.9+, 2p & 5.10b , 1p
*
10/1808
Slab & face climbing on HtH leads to steep finger crack. Not an obvious line...
Rock Whitehorse Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH Northeast Rock
5.9+, 5p
**
10/14/08
A bit chossy in places (p2 especially) but great climbing on p4 (flake) and an awesome final roof traverse.
Rock Barber Wall (a.k.a. Upper Wall) Cathedral Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH Northeast Rock
Chicken Delight (5.9), Nutcracker (5.10a), Double Vee (5.9+)
**
10/13/08
Short & steep crack routes. Slippery, coarse-grained rock. Not nearly as good as the Practice Slab IMO.
Rock Cannon Mountain, Franconia Notch, White Mountains, NH Northeast Rock

Whitney-Gilman Ridge

5.7, 6p (have done 5.9 exit variation)
***
10/11/08
The best line on Cannon and a really good route on clean rock.
Rock Cathedral Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH Northeast Rock
5.10a (.9R), 2p
**
10/10/08
A fun approach pitch to a classic clean corner. Risky moves exiting the second pitch of the BoS.
Rock Cathedral Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH Northeast Rock
Recom-Beast (Beast Flake var. to Recompense)
5.9, 4-5p
***
10/07/08
Classic climbing and a good line. A must do.
Rock Cathedral Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH Northeast Rock
5.8+, 5p
**
10/06/08
Good moderate climbing, unfortunatley broken by a large forested ledge.
Rock Practice Slab, Cathedral Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH Northeast Rock
Child's Play (.6), Kiddy Crack (.7), Bird's Nest (.9), They Died Laughing (.9), The Slot (.10b), Recluse (11b)
***
10/05/08
Incredible concentration of outstanding short cracks, many first freed by Hot Henry...
Rock The Precipice (aka South Wall), Acadia Nat'l Park, ME East Coast
Old Town (.7) to Return to Forever (.9), Gunklandia (.7) to Emigrant Crack (.10a), Birch Ade (.8)
**
09/30/08
Very good quality climbing but a definite lack of striking lines.
Rock Otter Cliffs, Acadia Nat'l Park, ME East Coast
Various topropes
5.7 to 5.10d
*
09/24/08
Short topropes on a pretty ocean cliff. Worth it for the location and the views.
Rock Spider's Web, Adirondacks, NY Northeast Rock TR (.10a), On The Loose (.9+/10a), Dacker Cracker (.10c)
***
09/13/08
Steep, sustained, classic crack climbing. The best we found in the Dacks.
Rock Moss Cliff, Adirondacks, NY Northeast Rock Hard Times 5.9+, 3p
**
09/10/08
Not as good as it looks from the road. The Tyrolean across the river to get there is the highlight.
Rock Upper Washbowl, Adirondacks, NY Northeast Rock Hesitation and Partition 5.8, 4p, and 5.9-
**
09/08/08
Popular and sandbagged. Some of the better multipitch climbing in the 'Dacks.
Rock Pitchoff Chimney Cliff, Adirondacks, NY Northeast Rock The El 5.8, 3p
***
09/04/08
The 80 foot horizontal traverse is pretty exciting! Good, exposed climbing makes this a classic.
Rock Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks, NY Northeast Rock Bloody Mary 5.9+, 2p
**
09/03/08
Good steep climbing. Better than it looks. Horrendous highway noise...
Rock Barkeater Crag, Adirondacks, NY Northeast Rock Fun City (.7), Mr Clean (.9), & Eat Yourself a Pie (.8+)
**
09/01/08
Small crag with a good selection of moderates in a pleasant setting with lots of birch trees.
Rock Spider's Web, Adirondacks, NY Northeast Rock Slim Pickins (5.9+) & Esthesia (.10a)
***
08/31/08
Very good crag with several steep (overhanging) cracks. Slim Pickins is a fun, technical dihedral. Esthesia is pure crack climbing with a wide crux.
Rock Pitchoff Chimney Cliff, Adirondacks, NY Northeast Rock Pete's Farewell 5.7, 3p
**
08/31/08
A 5 minute approach makes this climb extremely popular. Short sections of good climbing...
Alpine Rock Mt Assiniboine, AB, Canada West Coast North Ridge Grade III, 5.5
***
08/16/08
Loose and mostly unpleasant climbing on an exceptionally beautiful mountain... a classic Rockies route. Three stars for the mountain, not the climbing.
Alpine Rock Mt Gimli, Valhalla Range, BC, Canada West Coast South Ridge 5.8, 8p
****
08/12/08
One of the best alpine routes we've done in Canada (except for the Bugs). Stunning line. P1 and 5 are the best.
Alpine Rock Colchuck Balanced Rock, Alpine Lakes area, Leavenworth, WA West Coast Colchuck Balanced Rock (West Face) 5.12a, 11p (very soft rating!)
****
08/04/08
One of the best technical rock routes in the Cascades. Tough approach. Soft rating.
Rock Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth, WA West Coast Careno Crag, Regular Route 5.10, 4p
*
08/01/08
Good climbing but no line, very short pitches, and dangerous cruxes...
Rock Lower Town Wall, Index, WA West Coast Godzilla - City Park - Sloe Children 5.9 - 5.10b - 5.10d
****
07/28/08
Simply amazing. Sloe Children kicked our asses (very sustained).
Rock Lower Town Wall, Index, WA West Coast Godzilla 5.9
***
07/27/08
Classic.
Rock Thin Fingers 5.11a
***
Gorgeous line; strenous at the top
Rock Princely Ambitions 5.10a
***
Fun, interesting route; technical rather than pumpy.
Rock Static Point, WA West Coast Online 5.10b, 6p
**
07/25/08
Generic slab with huge runouts and rusty anchors.
Rock Upper Town Wall, Index, WA West Coast Davis-Holland - Lovin' Arms combo 5.10c, 6p
****
07/23/08
A classic by any measure. "Lovin' Arms" looks dirty from below but climbs well.
Rock Drug Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite Natl Park, CA West Coast OZ 5.10d, 4p
****
07/12/08
Varied and continuous. The 10c corner is simply amazing!
Hobbit Book 5.7R, 4p
***
Mellow climbing and a striking line. Serious runout on p3. A logical continuation to OZ.
Rock Fairview Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite Natl Park, CA West Coast Regular Route 5.9, 12p
****
07/10/08
The classic on Fairview. The first two pitches are a bit polished. Extremely popular.
Rock Fairview Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite Natl Park, CA West Coast Lucky Streaks 5.10d, 6p
*****
07/07/08
Six pitches of cracks and knobs up a beautiful, obvious line. Classic. The ultimate user-friendly multi-pitch: short approach, easy descent.
Rock Orange Pillar, Patricia Bowl, Rock Creek Canyon, Mammoth, CA West Coast Tommy Boy 5.10a, 1p
**
07/04/08
Beautiful granite in a gorgeous basin. More alpine than other crags in the area.
Boi-oi-oi-ing 5.10a, 2p
****
High Expectations 5.10d, 1p
***
Rock Gong Show Crag, Rock Creek Canyon, Mammoth, CA West Coast Sideshow 5.10a, 1p
**
07/01/08
One of the best roadside crags in the Mammoth area. Flawless granite.
He She 5.10b, 1p
***
Wages of Skin 5.10c, 1p
***
Eavesdropping 5.10c, 1p
***
Rock Cardinal (and V8) Pinnacle(s), Bishop, CA West Coast Crack Kingdom 5.10c, 4p
**
06/29/08
The crux pitch (#3) is really good, but overall, the line is not distinctive.
V8 5.10d, 1p
***
Strinking, steep, sustained, classic crack!
Rock Pratt's Crack Buttress, Pine Creek, Bishop, CA West Coast Sheila 5.10a, 1p
***
06/27/08
Sustained and interesting corner crack, ending in lieback crucx and short chimney. 65m pitch.
Rites of Spring 5.10d, 4p
****
Old-fashioned steep, sometimes wide cracks
Rock The Whale, Whitney Portal, Lone Pine, CA West Coast Bony Fingers 5.10c, 3p
****
06/25/08
Really fun finger crack on gorgeous rock.
Rock Voodo Dome, Needles, CA West Coast White Punks on Dope 5.9, 6p
****
06/22/08
Superbly varied; classic 4th pitch - and 6th if you go up the 5.9 finger crack on the left (you should).
Rock The Sorcerer, Needles, CA West Coast Atlantis (1st pitch) 5.10c
***
06/18/08
Classic steep flake; 3 stars because we only did p1...but the rest of the line looks awesome if you're up to 5.11+...
The Witch, Needles, CA Igor Unchained 5.9, 3p
*****
THE classic line on the Witch. Straight shot to the top and great sustained crack climbing.
Rock The Sorcerer, Needles, CA West Coast Thin Ice 5.10b, 3p
*****
06/15/08
Probably the most striking line on the east face of the Sorcerer. Classic finger cracks on p1 lead to... 5.10a squeeze on p2!
The Witch, Needles, CA Airy Interlude 5.10a, 4p
****
Just left of Igor is this amazing, picture perfect hand traverse (p2).
Rock Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA West Coast The Vampire 5.11a, 5p
*****
06/11/08
A Tahquitz classic! Follows a direct line up the Center Bulge. P2 follows an awesome lieback flake. Short cruxes and good pro.
Rock Suicide Rock, Idyllwild, CA West Coast Serpentine 5.9, 3p
**
06/08/08
Generic slab.
Sundance 5.10b, 3p
***
Old classic on the Sunshine Face. Crux move right off ledge should be rated PG IMHO.
Johnny Quest 5.10b, 1p
***
Burly finger crack. Much too short but very good.
Rock Suicide Rock, Idyllwild, CA West Coast Flower of High Rank & Etude 5.9, 2p & 5.11a, 1p
****
06/05/08
Two of top 3 crack climbs at Suicide?
Revelation 5.10a, 3p
**
Classic slab climbing on the Weeping Wall. Very slabby (duh!) and runout.
Rock Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA West Coast Whodunit 5.9, 7p
*****
06/03/08
One of the best lines at Tahquitz with very good pro. We'd done it before but it's so good that we had to do it again.
Rock Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA West Coast Fingertrip 5.7, 4p
***
05/31/08
The classic of the grade at Tahquitz. The 1st pitch is phenomenal.
On the Road (linked with Traitor Horn) 5.10c (& 5.8), 5p
***
OtR is a striking thin dihedral that sits one pitch off the ground. Linking this with TH, a wild 5.8, makes for a great route.
Rock Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA West Coast Left Ski Track 5.6, 3p
**
05/29/08
Very different from other routes at Tahquitz: steep and juggy. Somewhat tricky pro.
Rock Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA West Coast Human Fright (p1) & Camino Real 5.10a
***
05/27/08
The 1st pitch of HF makes a nice warmup. CR's 3rd pitch is a classic. The rest of that route is nothing special.
Rock Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA West Coast El Monte, Edgehogs (p1), Farewell Horizontal 5.10b, 5.10a and 5.10b/c
*
05/20/08
Bailed off El Monte after 2 pitches (dangerous rusted bolt). Didn't see any bolts above p1 of Edgehogs (?). Farewell Horizontal is quite good.
Rock Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA West Coast Super Pooper 5.10a, 3p
***
05/18/08
Another one we had done before, but it's a really good line!
Rock Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV West Coast Epinephrine
5.9, 16p
*****
05/11/08
We'd done it before but had to do it again. One of the very best long classic routes at RR.
Rock Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV West Coast Sour Mash
5.10a, 7-8p
****
05/09/08
Really excellent route; sustained and varied.
Rock Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV West Coast Refried Brains (p1-4)
5.9, 4p
***
05/06/08
Very good, sustained route on gorgeous rock (p1-4). Didn't do the rest of the route, which Handren' guidebook reports as loose.
Rock Aeolian Wall, Mount Wilson, Red Rocks, NV West Coast Woman of Mountain Dreams
5.11a, 16p
***
05/03/08
An amazing plumb line up the center of the Aeolian wall. Good climbing on p2 to p9. The upper pitches are loose/brittle. The third star is for the line.
Rock Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV West Coast Overhanging Hangover & Johnny Come Lately
5.10a, 2p & 5.10d, 1p
**
04/30/08
Two good shorter routes under (and through) the giant roof.
Rock Wholesome Fullback buttress, Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, NV West Coast Amber
5.10c, 4p
**
04/28/08
Starts with the finger crack of Wholesome fullback, then weaves a really fun and varied second pitch on great rock.
Rock Eagle Wall, Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV West Coast Mountain Beast
5.11-, 8p
***
04/25/08
Rated 11a in the Supplement to the Red Book and 10d in Handren's. You pick... Crux is a thin, well bolted traverse. Pitches 5 and 6 are excellent prototypical RR thin edge face climbing. Questionable rock on the last two pitches.
Rock Lotta Balls Wall, First Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV West Coast Black Magic
5.8, 4p
***
04/24/08
Outstanding route (particularly p1) just right of the more famous Lotta Balls.
Rock Solar Slab wall, Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV West Coast Horndogger Select & Sundog
5.8, 3p + 5.9+, 5p
*
04/22/08
So-so combo. Horndogger is a logical start to reach Sundog but is a pretty poor route with very brittle rock. Sundog is pretty good though.
Rock Pine Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV West Coast Birdland & Big Horn
5.7+, 5p & 5.8, 1p
****
04/20/08
Probably the best 5.7 at RR, and a striking pitch just to its left. Highly recommended combo.
Rock Willow Springs, Red Rocks, NV West Coast Peaches & Karate Crack
Single pitch, 5.7 & 5.9
*
04/19/08
Two good single pitch routes, though Karate Crack is a bit short...
Rock SummerdayValley, Northern Grampians, VA, Australia Australia Waxman & Hard Rain
Single pitch, 11 & 10
**
04/11/08
Stopped at this popular crag again on our way back to Araps. Two good routes with incredibly steep climbing for the grade.
Rock Barbican Wall and the Watchtower, Central Grampians, VA, Australia Australia Rapier (direct finish), Beezlebub, & Nerd's Day Out
19, 15, & 16
*
04/10/08
"Rapier" direct is the best line on Barbican Wall. Watchtower is a convenient crag near halls Gap with a few short trad and sport lines.
Rock Mt Rosea, Central Grampians, VA, Australia Australia

Diane

18, 3p
****
04/08/08

Back to Mt Rosea for more very good multi-pitch cragging. Diane is outstanding! Martin Eden also good (and hard) despite questionable first pitch.

Martin Eden
19, 3p
**
Rock Mt Arapiles, VA, Australia Australia Trad (several)
13 to 20, 1 to 4p
**

03/26/08 to 04/06/08

and

04/12/08

A bit disapointed with "the best crag in the universe" (as Aussies call it). Steep climbing on not-so-good- looking rock. A few good natural lines. Great camping. Probably the best crag in Victoria because of its convenience and the number of easy lines of good quality (12 and under). Lacks good climbs in the 16-17 range. Stiff grades.
Rock Mt Rosea, Central Grampians, VA, Australia Australia La Debutante
15, 5p
**
03/21/08 to 03/23/08

Best multi-pitch climbing in the Grampians (and in the crags we visited in Australia). Amazing fine-grained rock.

Australia The Last Rites
19, 3p
****
Australia Heretic
17, 3p
***
Rock Barbican Rock, Central Grampians, VA, Australia Australia The Lonely Race
19, 2p
**
03/20/08
Some loose rock, but a good line up pretty orange rock.
Rock The Bundaleer, Central Grampians, VA, Australia Australia Scarab
12, 2-3p
****
03/19/08
Interesting and varied climbing. One of the best multi-pitch at the crag.
Australia Blimp
20, 1p
***
The area classic. A striking corner, short but very strenuous.
Australia Gerontian
17, 3p
*
OK route.
Rock Mt Stapylton Amphitheater, Northern Grampians, VA, Australia Australia Sluice/Navarre
17, 3p
**
03/11/08
Two good and well protected natural lines. Navarre requires balancy lieback moves. Simpleton follows a striking corner with more burly climbing.
Simpleton
18, 2p
***
Rock SummerdayValley, Northern Grampians, VA, Australia Australia Trad (several)

10 to 17, 1p

***
03/10/08
Most popular crag in the Grampians. Very crowded. Nice climbing.
Hike Mt Kosciuszko, Kosciuszko N.P., Australia Australia Main Range Track & Summit Trail (loop)
hike (22km)
*
03/07/08
Pleasant hike through alpine (!) terrain leads to highest summit in Australia. Very crowded summit barely at the altitude of Los Alamos!
Rock Mt Buffalo, VA, Australia Australia Where Angels Fear to Thread

17, 5p

(19 direct start)

**
03/05/08
The moderate classic of the area. A good route if you like offwidths and rough granite. Even with taped hands and ankle-high crack shoes, we left a lot of skin on this one! Our ropes got pretty worn too.
Australia Banana (?) Crack
16, 1p
-
03/02/08
A short crack route, that tops out at the paragliding ramp.
Rock Sublime Point , Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia Australia Sweet Dreams (17 finish)
17, 3-5p
*
02/26/08
Longing for a mutlipitch route, we decided to go for this one. Somewhat of a local classic. An OK route but not exceptional by any measure.
Rock Zigzag Crag, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia Australia Sport (several)
Single pitch, 17 to 19
-
02/24/08
Pumpy face climbing on carrot bolts...
Rock Big Top , Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia Australia Sport
Single pitch, 17 to 19
NR
02/23/08
An out-of-the-way crag with bolted sport and trad routes. Climbed a tough bolted chimney. Backed off another route with dangerous fall potential.
Rock Mt Piddington, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia Australia Trad (several)
Single pitch, 13 to 21
****
02/22/08
A few great crack lines. Best trad climbing we found in the Blueys.
Rock Mt York, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia Australia Trad and sport (several)
Single pitch, 14 to 18
*
02/17/08 to 02/18/08
Mostly steep and pumpy climbing on carrots bolts! A few trad lines as well.
Rock Castle Rock, Christchurch, NZ New Zealand Trad (several)
Single pitch, 15 to 18
**
02/06/08
Tallest crag near Christchurch. A couple of worthwhile routes.
Rock Kapiti, Christchurch, NZ New Zealand Trad (several)
Single pitch, 15 to 18
*
02/03/08
One of the small crags near Christchurch. Convenient and very popular.
Rock Mihiwaka, Dunedin, NZ New Zealand Trad (several)
Single pitch, 15 to 18
*
01/30/08
Nice little crag. Close to Dunedin, one of our favourite cities in NZ because of its large student population and despite its awful weather.
Alpine Rock Saber, Darran Mountains, NZ New Zealand North Face (attempt)

Grade III, 18, 10p

(not completed)

**
01/18/08 to 01/21/08
A Darran classic. Expect to suffer on the long and occasionally technical approach. Decided to bail halfway up because of finicky weather and the fact that Eric had somehow dropped his belay device.
Snow & Ice Mt Tasman (& Lendenfeld), Fox Glacier, NZ New Zealand North Shoulder via Mt Lendenfeld
glacier travel, up to 60° snow & ice
*****
01/11/08
A very exposed ice arete on a beautiful mountain (2nd highest peak)...complete with chopper access to the door of the hut.
Alpine Rock Mt Barnicoat, Fox Glacier, NZ New Zealand Moonshine Buttress
Grade III, 19, 7p
**
01/09/08
Striking line, obvious from Pioneer Hut, but very mediocre (loose and runout) climbing. Great views of Mt Tasman though.
Alpine Rock Moir's Mate, Darran Mountains, NZ New Zealand Bowen-Allan Corner
Grade III, 17, 6p
**
01/05/08
An exposed knife edge ridge leads to the base of the climb. A 1-day Darran classic. Last two pitches are good. Expect steep tuffa (grass) moves and crappiness on the bottom pitches.
Rock Mount Horrible, near Timaru, NZ New Zealand Various (trad)
14 to 20
*
01/01/08
Crack climbing on good clean basalt, but the routes are incredibly short.
Rock Mount Somers, NZ New Zealand Christian Principals & Orange Wall
Single pitch trad cragging, 15 to 21
*
12/28/07 to 12/30/07
Basalt column climbing. A long hike (3hrs) leads to too few quality climbs. Not worth the effort unless spending the night at the hut appeals to you (nice hut but crowded).
Rock Wye Creek, Queenstown, NZ New Zealand Various (sport)
14 to 20
*
12/25/07
More of an outdoor gym than anything else. Nice views of the lake.
Snow & Ice Tititea (aka Mt Aspiring), Aspiring N.P., NZ New Zealand Southwest Ridge
glacier travel, up to 60° snow & ice (AI3), rock (~10), mixed (~M4)
*****
12/18/07 to 12/20/07
THE striking line up a gorgeous mountain. A definite must-do.
Rock Diamond Crag, Wanaka Rock, NZ New Zealand Various (sport and trad)
17 to 20
***
12/14/07
A shady and out of the way crag. Good mix of slab, thin edging, and crack climbing.
Rock Hospital Crag and The Tombstone, Wanaka Rock, NZ New Zealand Various (sport)
14 to 19
**
12/13/07
The most popular crag in Wanaka.
Snow & Ice Mount Barff, Aspiring N.P., NZ New Zealand (attempt)
Grade III, glacier travel, up to 50° snow
***
12/08/07 to 12/10/07
Nice climb with great views of Aspiring. Had to turn around 3/4 way up due to deep soft snow.
Hike Avalanche Peak, Arthur's Pass, NZ New Zealand Avalanche Peak Track (up) & Scott's Track (down)
Hike (some 3rd class)
**
12/03/07
Nice hike with great views of Rolleston and friendly keas (wild parrots).
Snow & Ice Mt Rolleston, Arthur's Pass, NZ New Zealand Otira Slide
Grade II, 45° snow
**
12/02/07
Good training route with easy access from Arthur's Pass.
Rock Charleston, NZ New Zealand Main Wall
18
*
11/28/07
Sea cliff climbing. Beautiful but spooky place. Make sure the Tasman is relatively calm or you'll get soaked! The pro is marginal in places.
Rock Pohara, near Payne's Ford, NZ New Zealand Various (sport)
18-19
*
11/25/07 and 11/26/07
One star for the setting, by the sea. Weird climbing on limestone slopers.
Snow & Ice Taranaki (aka Mt Egmont) New Zealand East Ridge
Grade II, up to 55° snow & ice
***
11/17/07
Great line up a classic volcano. Recommended.
Snow & Ice Ruapehu (Tahurangi, highest summit), Tongariro N.P., NZ New Zealand Skyline Ridge
Grade II, 40° snow
**
11/11/07
Nice introduction to NZ ice.
Hike Tongariro, Tongariro N.P., NZ New Zealand Regular route (South-East Ridge)
hike
*
11/09/07
Lucie climbed this peak when she hiked the Tongariro Crossing by "herself" - just along with another 200 people.
Hike Ngauruhoe, Tongariro N.P., NZ New Zealand Regular route (from Mangatepopo saddle)
3rd class, 30° snow
**
11/08/07
Non-technical but tedious hike on scoria slope leads to the summit. Classical volcano cone.
Rock Whanganui Bay, Lake Taupo, NZ New Zealand Various routes on Wekenui (aka Main Wall)
Trad cragging (17 to 22)
***
11/02/07
Good mix of crack and face climbing by the lake on a Maori reserve.
Rock Kawakawa Bay, Lake Taupo, NZ New Zealand Crack Wall & The Point
Trad cragging (17 to 19)
**
10/30/07
Good crack climbing. The lake setting at the point is pretty spectacular too (as is the via-ferrata-style approach).
Rock Kinloch, Lake Taupo, NZ New Zealand K1 Wall
Sport cragging
-
10/29/07
Something to do on an afternoon by the lake.
Rock Waipapa, North Island, NZ New Zealand Main Wall
Trad cragging (17 to 19)
**
10/26/07
Small crag but some of the best trad climbing we found in NZ.
Rock Froggatt Edge, Wharepapa South, North Island, NZ New Zealand Main Wall
Sport cragging (14 to 19)
**
10/24/07 and 10/25/07
Pleasant sport climbing in a very pastoral setting.
Rock Tieton River West Coast Wildcat Wall
Trad cragging (up to 10a)
***
09/09/07
Another good crag at Tieton River. Did not get to do the super classic Wildcat Crack. Hopefully, we'll be back.
Rock Tieton River, WA West Coast Ride the Lightning
5.9, 7p, PG
NR
09/07/07
Really bad rock on the upper pitches. Not recommended. Just do the first two pitches if you really must!
Rock Goat Wall, Mazama, WA North Cascades Restless Natives
5.11c (or 10d/A0), 10p
***
09/01/07
Another good long clip-up on the Goat Wall near Mazama. Better route than Sisyphus in our opinion.
Snow & Ice Eldorado Peak North Cascades East Ridge
Grade II, glacier travel, up to 35° snow
***

08/26/07 to 08/28/07

A consolation prize after abandoning our original objective to climb Early Morning Spire (for reasons of bad strategy). Great scenic route nonetheless.
Alpine Rock Roan Wall, Darrington area North Cascades Center Stage (didn't finish last pitch)
5.11a, 10p
***
08/22/07 to 08/24/07
Good slab route tucked away in a beautiful alpine cirque near Darrington.
Rock Lower Town Wall, Index, WA North Cascades Princely Ambitions, Sagittarius & Roger's Corner
up to 10a
***
08/16/07
Just about the best rock you'll find anywhere, but the place feels dark and oppressive (not to mention wet...).
Apine Rock Burgundy Spire, WA Pass, WA North Cascades Paisano Pinnacle & North Face
Grade IV, 5.9, 12p
**
08/13/07
A nice way to climb Burgundy. The regular North Face route alone is not really worth it in our opinion.
Apine Rock South Early Winter Spire, WA Pass, WA North Cascades Southwest Buttress

Grade III, 5.8, 8p (5.10b var.)

***
08/09/07
A good day on SEWS. Three of the pitches are excellent. Easy descent.
Apine Rock Inspiration Peak , Southern Pickets, WA North Cascades East Ridge
Grade IV, 5.10, ~11p
***
07/30/07 to 08/02/07
Full-on alpine adventure in one of the most remote and scenic ranges in the Cascades. Some scary loose rock and an ugly rap descent...
Apine Rock Chianti Spire, WA Pass, WA North Cascades Rebel Yell
Grade III, 5.10, 7p
*****
07/27/07
Great climbing on a scenic spire. Terrific rock.
Apine Rock Juno Tower (Vasiliki Ridge), WA Pass, WA North Cascades Clean Break

Grade IV+, 5.10c, ~17p

****
07/25/07
A very good alpine climb. The 10c pitch is beauuutiful! A long ridge route on good rock and an easy descent.
Rock
Goat Wall, Mazama, WA
North Cascades
5.11a, 10p
**
07/21/07
A good clip-up. The rock is not as clean as on "Prime Rib", except for the crux pitches.
Rock
Goat Wall, Mazama, WA
North Cascades
5.9, 11p
***
07/19/07
Good moderate clip-up.
Apine Rock The Minuteman, WA Pass, WA North Cascades East Face
Grade III, 5.10a, 7p
**
07/16/07
Two short pitches of great rock climbing, but a lot of "unpleasantness" getting to and back down from it.
Apine Rock Lexington Tower, WA Pass, WA North Cascades East Face
Grade III, 5.9, 9p
***
07/14/07
Good climbing but deteriorating rock in the upper pitches.
Apine Rock North Early Winter Spire, WA Pass, WA North Cascades

Northwest Corner (TR from 2003-2004 bus trip)

Grade III, 5.9, 6p
****
07/11/07
One of the cleanest routes at WA Pass.
Apine Rock North Twin Sister, WA North Cascades West Ridge
3rd and 4th class rock, 45° snow
**
07/08/07
The main attraction is the variety: mountain bike approach, ridge scramble, snow descent.
Snow & Ice Mt Shuksan, WA North Cascades Sulphide Glacier
glacier travel, up to 45° snow
****
07/03/07 to 07/05/07
A great ski-mountaineering trip!
Snow & Ice
Ruth Mountain, WA
North Cascades
30° snow
***
06/26/07
Do it for the incredible views of Shuksan!
Snow & Ice
Silver Star Mountain, WA Pass, WA
North Cascades
glacier, 30° snow, 4th class rock
****
06/22/07
A fun, non-technical climb with great views.
Apine Rock
East Wilmans Spire, Monte Cristo, WA
North Cascades
45° snow and 5.4
***
06/19/07
Striking spire in a beautiful setting; very little technical rock though.
Rock
Darrington, WA
North Cascades
5.9, 5p and 5.10b, 4p
***
06/12/07
Two good routes on the smaller west buttress at 3 O'Clock Rock.
Rock West Coast
Various (trad)
wide range
****
06/02/07 to 06/10/07
Excellent 1 to 2 pitch climbs on basalt columns. Best cragging in WA?
Rock West Coast
Various (trad)
wide range
***
05/23/07 to 05/30/07
Good trad lines on excellent and sunny granite just outside Salt Lake City. Climbs are geographically scattered though.
A bit of everything All over...      
Mostly great!
Before this trip...

For climbs we did during our 2003-2004 bus trip, click here.

For a summary of climbs done prior to our 2003-2004 bus trip, click here.